Cuffing your jeans gets a bad rap. Probably because most people associate it with those tightly-rolled pant cuffs that boy bands like New Kids on the Block used to wear. Yeah, that’s a look you should definitely be avoiding. But we’re not talking about cuffing your jeans so you could fill your pants with water and not spill a drop. We mean something a little classier and understated.

Knowing how to roll your denim the right way can be just as important as finding the perfect jeans to fit your build. Here are three simple ways to pull off the rolled look and not look like a throwback to the 80s.

1. The slimmer the jean, the skinnier the cuff.
The pin roll is your best buddy. It can easily taper any kind of straight-leg jean.

 To make this slimming cuff, pinch the excess fabric (one to two inches) of your jeans away from the side of your leg. Fold the excess fabric back against the ankle, then cuff normally, keeping the pinched fabric pinned as you smooth around the rest of the cuff.

Pair the pin roll with standout kicks, as this detail allows complete footwear visibility.

2. Selvedge denim calls for a single or double cuff.

You dropped a pretty penny on that selvedge denim, so you might as well show off a little of that telltale red tape.

Create a classic single cuff by flipping up your fabric (about an inch or inch-and-a-half) from the bottom of your jeans. If you want a cleaner look while sticking to the single cuff, tuck the tip of the hem (just a few centimeters) back behind the single fold.

For the double cuff, simply flip the hemline up twice—about an inch or so both times. The double cuff works best with light to mid-weight selvedge denims. If you’re a smaller guy, steer clear from this leg-shortening style altogether.

Keep in mind, heavier cuffs pair best with heavier footwear—think boots or thick-soled shoes. Stick with lighter sneakers when sporting smaller cuffs.

3. Don’t Overdo It.

Stop, drop, and don’t roll more than twice.

Though a couple cuffs can help adjust a too-big size and polish up a look, rolling too many times can create an awkward, unflattering shape. It may be necessary to head to a professional tailor to get that perfect fit.