“Ginger-Chilli Fish Sauce is at every Vietnamese dinner table,” says Charles Phan, the executive chef and owner of the Slanted Door, in San Francisco. “We call it nguoc cham. Often it’s just fish sauce, ginger, sugar, vinegar and Thai chilli. This one is used for any white but not superfatty fish, like catfish.”

Make It
2 tbsp minced, peeled ginger
1-2 Thai chillies
3 tbsp sugar
2 tbsp white vinegar
4 tbsp fish sauce
2 tbsp water
1 tbsp fresh lemon juice
2 tsp chopped spring onions

In a mortar, pound the ginger, Thai chilli and sugar into a paste.
Add the rest of the ingredients and stir.