Stylemaster

Look good, feel better

Neil Doveton, MH Fashion & Grooming Director, has spent nearly two decades helping guys look more stylish.

Whatâ€™s the best way to lace my dress shoes?

Take your cue from the style maestros of the Old World and run the laces horizontally rather than criss-crossing them. The European pattern looks elegant and it holds your foot securely on the inside, explains John Halton, a retired mathematician who has studied lacing techniques (yes, you would have to be retired). Cap it off with a non-slip Cambridge knot, a variation of a surgeonâ€™s knot, and youâ€™ll never have to retie an unruly shoe again. 1 With your shoes facing you, feed one end of the lace down into the bottom-right eyelet and the other end down into the bottom-left eyelet. Then pull them through, making sure theyâ€™re equal. Youâ€™ll make a straight bar across the outside; with laces on the inside. 2 Thread the right-side lace up through the secondleft eyelet, across the shoe and down through the matching right-side eyelet. Do the same with the leftside lace in the third pair of eyelets, and then the rightside lace in the fourth pair. 3 Feed the lace ends through the remaining eyelets. 4 Secure your shoe with a non-slip Cambridge knot. Make a half knot and then two bunny ears. Cross and pull the left loop through, but before you pull the two ears tight, pass the left ear through the loop again. Pull tight.

What are the rules on wearing and caring for a necktie?

> As with everything, you get what you pay for. The best materials for ties are either silk or a polyester and silk blend. A really good tie design is created from woven silk, not print. > When coordinating a tie and shirt combination, work with the base colour of the tie, usually the most predominant colour. As a rule of thumb, the base colour should match or compliment the base colour of your shirt. > Typically more conservative, utilitarian solid-coloured ties are excellent paired with striped shirts to create contrast. > Striped ties are a popular choice for a reason. Different size stripes, which are often made up of a multi-shade single colour or a few accent colours, allow for versatility when coordinating with suits and shirts. > Paisley ties have made a high-end style comeback and are featuring in several designer collections. > Hang your ties in your cupboard, donâ€™t fold them. Itâ€™ll help with creases and protect them from sunlight, preventing any fading. When travelling, roll ties and stash them inside a sock. Then donâ€™t forget to hang them up again when you get to your destination. > Trim any loose threads on your tie with scissors. Pulling them can do major damage to your tie. > Always unknot your tie when youâ€™re not wearing it. Leaving it knotted can damage the tie and create permanent wrinkles. > Steam your ties; never iron them. Itâ€™ll cause the fabric to shine. In a push, steam your tie by holding it over a boiling kettle. > Put cologne on before you get dressed. Getting it on your tie will damage the colour. > Rubbing stains will cause fabric abrasion and loss of colour. Instead, blot the area with a damp cloth. More serious stains can be removed with spot remover or mild detergent, but be sure to test the remover in an inconspicuous area such as the back of the tie.

What is bespoke tailoring?

Bespoke, or "custom", tailoring is all about complete exclusivity and originality. It is unique to the style needs of the individual. Hereâ€™s a guideline on what you can expect at bespoke tailors. Firstly you will be advised to try on different shirt blocks â€“ a basic sample shirt made in different shapes from ultra slim to classic. Once you have decided which block is best suited to your body shape, the next step is to consider the detailing. What kind of collar do you want â€“ a rounded, cut away, button-down or spread collar? What about the cuffs â€“ soft cuffs, double buttoned or cuff linked? The options are extensive â€“ donâ€™t panic, you will be carefully guided through the choices. Thereafter itâ€™s a matter of looking at the finer design details, like the type of buttons and stitching you would prefer. Once youâ€™ve decided on all this you get to choose the right fabric for your shirt design and voila, you have co-created your own garment.

Archives

Where's a good place to shop for sales in Europe?
- I've been to Europe around fashion season and have always wondered where the best sales are, can you help me out?
  
  After Italy and the annual Milan Menswear Collections I usually head over to London for a mid-year break, to catch up with some friends, but mostly to satiate my massive fashion appetite at the famous summer sales. Ah, the London summer sales, where the clothing prices almost compare with back home. And it's not just the price that gets me excited, it's the smorgasbord of choice. This time is special because MH Style Co-Ordinator, Azeez Jacobs, is also on board and we're frantically feasting on the sales together. We've just hot-footed our way down Oxford street dropping in and out of shops to a constant refrain of "What do you think of these?" and "Those are a must!" or "Get the scarf, man!". We both have a penchant for shoes, and the choices of fashionable footwear seem endless.
What fashion trends are heading our way this summer?
- What fashion trends are heading our way this summer?
  
  Some of highlights include the awesome Dolce&Gabbana show which, as always, is a wearable fusion of sexy and sophisticated style. They've added a new silhouette to the usual slim-cut, body contouring style by introducing looser wide-legged trousers, a trend I imagine we'll see a lot more of this season. Still teamed with close-cut and structured jackets and shirts it certainly makes for a more comfortable way to dress for summer. They've used a palette of cool summery colours: icy greys, pale blues and iced creams... flattering with a tan! Last seasons slim look still prevails, so you can still wear what you bought before. Dolce&Gabanna always add a zing and twist to their collection and this year they introduced the oriental print. Satin and silky drawstring pants, boxer shorts, shirts and gowns make for an intriguing sleepwear and leisurewear ensemble. Perhaps a touch too exotic for more conservative blokes... maybe just the boxer shorts?
Where do I find Burberry?
- Where do I find Burberry?
  
  From satin and sexy to the layered and textured collection of Burberry Prorsum which stirred the senses like an early morning walk in a musty English forest. The shades of sage greens, muddied browns, sky blues, greys and berry reds are used in various combinations for structured jackets, loose baggy knits and cardigans, slim tapered trousers, shirts and waistcoats and worn with two-toned brogues, scarves and floppy hats, and the inevitable signature trenchcoat worn belted at the waist or casually open. Burberry Prorsum is soon to launch in Cape Town at the V&A Waterfront. Any addition of Burberry to ones wardrobe is a timeless and stylish investment.
Can you recommend a good electronic hair clipper?
- My hair clipper is killing me, it's nicked me so many times and taken chunks of hair and flesh from my head. Can you recommend a good hair clipper?
  
  I love innovation. Here's one that got me eating out of it's palm! Get your head around the 360 Palm Clipper from Toni & Guy. This compact hair clipper, with 360degree rotating head that can clip and style your hair into the latest trends. It has adjustable blade lengths, a hand strap and rubberised finish for a firm non-slip grip to save you from looking like a Last of the Mohicans extra. You can even use it in the shower, so the post haircut clean-up is a complete wash out!
Where can I get a good pair of designer spec frames?
- I'm tired of wearing a pair of old out of date spectacles, where can I find a good pair of designer spectacle frames?
  
  There is nothing short sighted about Oakley's new ophthalmic eyewear range. The retro-inspired tortoiseshell Voltage range topped my list for it's classic styling. Oakley's stylish prescription frames are a good option for the spectacle wearing guy. More at www.oakley.com
Can you recommend a good pair of socks?
- I keep getting holes in my socks when I go for long walks or hikes, can you recommend a good pair of socks that I can wear with confidence?
  
  Winter's here, but that's not a reason to dig a hole and hibernate. Take a hike, mate. Literally get out into the country or go on a trail walk, but do it in comfort with Falke's Drynamix hiking socks. Protective cushioning and seamless toe make them a great choice for a professional hiker or just a laid back stroll outdoors. They look so good, back at the lodge she might even let you wear them in the sack!
How do I keep my socks together?
- I keep losing my socks, whether it's because only one gets in the laundry or that only one comes out of the laundry, how do I keep them together?
  
  Saturday is laundry day for me. I am quite anal about keeping my whites white, separating colours by hue, and hand-washing special items, but I still end up with bags of mismatched socks! Now I've discovered Sock-mates. Pull a matching pair of socks through the centre ring of the Sock-mate clip, chuck it into the washing machine, then toss into the tumble dryer or hook up to dry. Store it as is, and save yourself from another sock hunt.
How do I get a pair of customised sneakers?
- I'm bored with the regular sneakers I see in the stores these days, where can I organise a pair of customised sneakers?
  
  I had a fabulous experience cooking up a custom pair of sneakers at the Puma Mongolian Shoe BBQ event at Canal Walk in Cape Town. It's a terrific hands-on, tactile and interactive way to customise your own pair of sneakers. I was blown away by the variety of finishes: faux fur, wood-effect leather, weaved herringbone and alligator-embossed leather, to name a few.After much Libran ho-humming I played it fashionably safe with a monochromatic selection of black finishes, with a matt gold side stripe. It's a great gift idea, or just to set yourself apart from fashion clones with your own unique footwear. Your design is previewed on screen and is shipped to the store in 5-6 weeks. You can also log on to www.puma.com to build and order your sneakers.
What makes a product environmentally friendly?
- What defines a product as being environmentally friendly? Or is it just a marketing tool?
  
  There is a trend both locally and globally towards taking greater care of our resources, as well as the people and communities involved in the production process. For a company to produce organic products, they need to work with natural fibres that are grown without toxic pesticides and fertilisers. Woolworths has already launched its own organic cotton range, meaning the cotton has been grown without the use of any toxic chemicals. Woolworths has also ensured that only eco-friendly natural dyes are used in the colouring of the shirts. Smaller eco-conscious retailers, like Hemporium, are also producing natural fibre-based products. Other natural fibres include bamboo, hemp and soya bean. Leviâ€™s has explored manufacturing with natural fibres by creating jeans using fibre created from sugarcane. But to answer your question, check the jargon buster below to see the definition of organic fibres. If you want to ensure a product is environmentally friendly, look for a SABS certification of the productâ€™s claims.
What's better to use in my hair than gel?
- I use gel in my hair but hate the crispy look. How can I make it look more natural?
  
  Pull your head out of the Eighties, Swayze: gel is old news. A lot of gels dry the hair, leaving the scalp flaky. Instead, try a medium-weight wax or heavier pomade for a gel-like hold without the angel dust. Another benefit of wax: you can restyle throughout the day if you want to change your look. We suggest Goldwells Craftsman Hard Wax R80 selected salons

*Men's Health does not give out contact information for experts featured in our magazine or on our web site, and queries addressed to these individuals cannot be forwarded on your behalf. If you require professional health and lifestyle advice, we strongly recommend that you contact your local service providers.

What do you think crosses the line into stalker territory? She...
	Asks your friends for details about what you like, your favourite food etc
	Checks your Facebook page often
	Drives past your house to see if you’re home
	Pitches up at your local haunt
	Phones you continuously

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